ElizabethPlanning a trip to Kusatsu Onsen? Let me take you along on my one-night November getaway with my girlfriend to this charming onsen town in Gunma Prefecture. It’s a perfect weekend retreat from Tokyo, offering stunning hot springs, cultural experiences, and a slice of history. Here’s how our itinerary unfolded and why I think you’ll love this trip as much as we did!
Day One
10:00 AM: Departure from Ueno Station
We caught the limited express train “Kusatsu” from Ueno Station, and the ride took about 2 hours and 28 minutes. While you can also take the Shinkansen, we opted for the limited express for its direct route and cozy vibe. Make sure you book your tickets in advance—we did this online and picked them up easily at the machine in Shinagawa Station. A quick tip: Ueno Station is massive, so allow some extra time to find your platform. When in doubt, the station master is your best friend!
12:30 PM: Arrival in Kusatsu
After arriving at Naganohara Kusatsuguchi Station, we hopped on the local bus to Kusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal. The buses are perfectly timed with train arrivals, so you won’t have to stress. We used our PASMO cards for the bus ride, but you can also purchase a ticket at the station if needed.
Once we arrived in Kusatsu, we took our time walking from the train station to our hotel. Our walk led us to Shirane-jinja, a small Shinto shrine perched above Kusatsu. The stairs offered stunning views over the town and gave us our first glimpse of the beautiful onsen town. From there, we explored the area, browsing shops and checking out the public and footbaths.
We found a soba shop on the hill for lunch. We had traditional flat soba noodles – they were perfect for filling our bellies and making us warm as the snow started to fall.
2:00 PM: Check-in at Kusatsu Hotel Annex Watanoyu
Our accommodation was delightful! Staying at the Kusatsu Hotel Annex Watanoyu, we were treated to complimentary tickets to the Sainokawara Open Air Bath and the Kataoka Tsurutaro Bijutsukan (art museum). The hotel is centrally located, making it easy to explore the town. We were treated to hot tea and sweets in our room.
Afternoon: Exploring Kusatsu
Our first stop was the Sainokawara Open Air Onsen, one of the most beautiful hot springs I’ve ever experienced. Sitting in the hot water while snow gently fell around us was simply magical. A quick note: there are no shower facilities at this onsen, so be prepared. Make sure to use the buckets to rinse yourself before you hop in. It was an unforgettable way to unwind and connect with nature.
After bathing, we explored the trails in Sainokawara Park. The park is dotted with large footbaths and bubbling hot springs, with plumes of steam creating an almost mystical atmosphere. It was such a peaceful and unique way to immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of Kusatsu.
After enjoying the outdoor onsen, we headed to the Yubatake, the “hot water field” in the center of town. Seeing it in the daylight was mesmerizing, but it was even more magical all lit up at night.
We wandered through the heart of Kusatsu, stopping to admire the iconic Yubatake (hot water field). The steam rising from the emerald-green water is mesmerizing and gives the town its unique charm. It’s a great spot for photos and soaking up the atmosphere. We popped into a few more shops and eventually decided on a lovely izakaya with views of the hot water field for dinner.
Before we headed back to the hotel we made sure to check out the lights around the city.
When we returned to the hotel, we changed into our yukatas and explored the hotel’s footbath and onsen. What makes this hotel special is that its onsen uses water from both of the town’s famous hot spring sources. It was the perfect way to relax after a day of exploring Kusatsu.
Relaxation at the Footbath Café (Optional) We initially planned to visit this charming spot, which combines coffee and onsen in a unique experience. Although we didn’t make it, it’s a great option if you’re looking to soak your feet in warm water while sipping a delicious coffee. The Footbath Café is located at 118-1 Kusatsu-machi and opens at 10 AM. Highly recommended if you’re craving a moment of indulgence!
Day Two
We woke up to the most beautiful day!
Breakfast & Art Museum
We began our morning with breakfast at the museum cafe across from our hotel, indulging in coffee and delightfully fluffy pancakes. From our cozy window seats, we watched snow gently fall on the path leading to the park. When the art museum opened, we took advantage of our free tickets to explore it. Though small, the museum was charming, and spending about 30 minutes there made for a lovely start to the day.
Yumomi Performance
Then, we caught the first available Yumomi performance of the day at Netsunoyu. Be sure to line up 30 minutes in advance to secure good seats. We sat upstairs, which offered a perfect view of the historic water-cooling dance. Tickets are sold 30 minutes before each show, and you can even use a coupon (linked here: Netsunoyu Coupon). The energy and joy of the performers are contagious! This cultural experience was a delightful highlight of our visit.
Relaxation at Otaki-no-yu
No trip to Kusatsu is complete without a visit to one of its famous hot springs. We spent a few blissful hours at Otaki-no-yu, which opens from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM. This onsen is known for its “awaseyu” baths, where you can experience different water temperatures. We bought our admission tickets at the front desk and rented towels, which made everything super convenient. This was a great way to start off our morning.
More Exploration
Post bath we were hungry again, so we found another great spot to have some rice bowls. There was a bit of a wait this time, as more people had come into town during the morning hours. Nothing like the quiet evening we had in town after the last train had left.
The town itself is just so charming.
With some extra time on our hands, we decided to take a leisurely walk through the woods. Along the way, we stumbled upon the small, vermilion Nikko-ji temple, affiliated with the Nichiren Buddhist sect. Its serene grounds seemed to blend seamlessly with the gardens of the nearby houses, creating a peaceful and picturesque atmosphere.
At the entrance to town, there’s a modern bridge that’s both a traffic hub and a fabulous footbath. We stopped here to warm our feet and relax before our journey back. We also hoped to visit Lucky Bagel, a highly recommended bagel shop nearby, but unfortunately, it was closed during our visit—just another reason to return!
2:40 PM: Departure from Kusatsu
We reluctantly left this charming town, catching the bus back to Naganohara Kusatsuguchi Station. We had just enough time before our train came to walk up the bridge over the train tracks and take in the view. From there, we boarded the 3:43 PM limited express train to Ueno Station, arriving in Tokyo in the early evening. The journey back was smooth and gave us plenty of time to reflect on our little adventure.
Tips for Your Trip
- Advance Reservations: Make sure to book your train tickets in advance. Limited express trains require reservations, and it’s worth securing your spot early.
- Ask for Help: If you’re unsure about train platforms (Ueno Station can be tricky!), don’t hesitate to ask the station master. They’re super helpful.
- Pack Light: The town is walkable, and you’ll enjoy it more if you’re not lugging around heavy bags.
- Coupons and Passes: Take advantage of local coupons and discounts, like the one for the Yumomi performance.
- Footbath Café: Don’t skip this unique spot—it’s the perfect mix of relaxation and indulgence.
Kusatsu Onsen exceeded our expectations as a quick getaway from Tokyo. Whether you’re traveling with friends, family, or solo, it’s a must-visit destination for anyone craving relaxation and a taste of traditional Japan.
Have you been to Kusatsu? Share your experiences in the comments!
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If you love Onsen as much as I do I can’t recommend this onsen book enough! I literally pour over it planning my next onsen trip.
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