ElizabethSugamo, also known as Old Lady Harajuku, or as I like to call it, Red Panty Street, is one of the most unique and vibrant neighborhoods in Tokyo. While it might not have the youthful chaos of Shibuya or the high fashion of Omotesando, Sugamo offers a quirky and delightful shopping street packed with history, culture, and some truly fun experiences. I’ve been quite a few times (so you’ll notice pictures from a few visits) and always find something new. If you come on a day ending in a 4, you’ll also get to experience a flea market (or Shrine Sale) that runs up and down the shopping street, adding even more charm to your visit.
Getting to Sugamo
I always start at Sugamo Station because I’m a Yamanote Line girl, but several train lines stop here, making it easy to access. If you’re an Eki Train Stamp Collector (like me!), you’ll find the train stamp on the left-hand side when exiting the main JR Line exit. After heading out the central doors, turn right, and you’ll be on your way to Sugamo’s lively shopping street. (I arrived early and had to grab a coffee just outside the station!)
Best Time to Visit
10:00 AM is the perfect time to start your day here—everything is open, and you can enjoy a full day of exploration. Arriving earlier may leave you wandering a sleepy street with shops still closed.
What to Do in Sugamo
Honey Beans Coffee
A great place to pick up coffee beans, though it doesn’t open until midday. If you’re a coffee lover, you might want to save this stop for the way back to the station.
Cafe & Latte
Located next door, Cafe & Latte is a cozy spot to enjoy a cup of coffee and cake. Hours are a bit wonky, so check before you go.
Shinshoji Temple & The Jizo Statue
Right after passing under the large red Sugamo shopping street sign, you’ll come across Shinshoji Temple, home to one of the six Jizo statues of Edo. This towering bronze statue was originally placed here to protect travelers along the historic Nakasendō route. Even today, visitors stop by to offer prayers and pay their respects, continuing a centuries-old tradition of seeking Jizō Bosatsu’s protection and guidance. This massive Buddhist statue is worth at least a quick stop.
Kokeshi Doll Collection
Just before reaching Shinshoji Temple, look for a building with three illuminated Kokeshi dolls on the outside. Step inside to explore an ever-changing collection of Kokeshi dolls, housed by a religious organization associated with the temple.
Shogetsudo Japanese Confectionery
A must-visit for lovers of traditional Japanese sweets, Shogetsudo specializes in mochi-based treats that are as delicious as they are beautiful. I’m now partial to the ones filled with beanpaste.
Sugamo Kintaro Ame
This hand-rolled candy shop is both an eye-catching spectacle and a great place for souvenirs. Check out the tourist map of Sugamo, conveniently posted on the side of their building!
Togenuki Jizoson Koganji Temple & The Arai Kannon
One of Sugamo’s most famous spots, Togenuki Jizoson Koganji Temple, is known for its healing powers. Be sure to check out the Arai Kannon, a statue that visitors wash to relieve ailments and pain. Visitors perform a purification ritual where they pour sacred water over the statue and gently wipe the part of its body that corresponds to their own ailment or pain. This act is believed to transfer the healing properties of Kannon (the Bodhisattva of Compassion) to the worshiper, promoting physical and spiritual well-being. Because of its reputation, you’ll often see a long queue of people patiently waiting for their turn to complete the ritual. We packed a washcloth and plastic bag to bring some of the healing water home!
Kifukudo Bakery
Kifukudo Bakery is a Sugamo institution, serving up freshly baked anpan (sweet red bean buns) for over a century. Established in 1916, this charming little shop is the perfect place to grab a nostalgic, handmade treat—whether you prefer smooth or chunky red bean filling, both are delicious! (This visit I tried the cream cheese and red bean paste! Yummy!)
Butamans Steamed Bun Shop
If you love steamed buns, this shop is a must-try. While I’m not the biggest fan, many visitors rave about their adorable and delicious treats.
The Famous Red Underwear Shop
You’ll pass several shops selling red underwear, but this one is the real deal. A Japanese friend once told me that buying and wearing red underwear after turning 60 helps balance your chi. I figured, why take my chances? Visiting on Valentine’s Day made for an extra-fun experience picking up some hilarious and useful souvenirs!
The Duck Mailbox at Sugamo Post Office
Further up the street, the Sugamo Post Office has a duck-shaped mailbox, which makes for a great photo opportunity!
Sugamon’s Fuzzy Duck Butt
Easy to miss, but totally worth finding—the Sugamo Local Community Center has a fuzzy duck butt statue that you must pat for good luck. Sugamon is the name of the area mascot and he just happens to be a big fluffy duck! Our visitor’s guide said, “Rumor had it, he who touches Sugamon’s fluffy posterior will have his every desire in love fulfilled.” Snap a photo and then check out the old-fashioned clock on the corner nearby.
More Sweet Shops & Kimono Shopping
Further down the street, you’ll find Oshiage Senbi, another sweets shop, and Echigoya, a beautiful kimono store worth browsing. That said, don’t limit yourself to just these shops—wandering and discovering hidden treasures is half the fun!
Teuchisoba Kikutani Sugamo Honten
Sugamo is home to a Michelin-starred soba restaurant, though I haven’t tried it yet. (You can make a reservation online.) Whatever your taste, there’s plenty of delicious food to be found along the shopping street.
My Shrine-Sale Find
I found an adorable kokeshi doll at the shrine sale, that immediately captured my heart. I’m nearly always agonizing over which one to take home, but try to just find one that calls to me. Kokeshi dolls are traditional Japanese wooden dolls, known for their simple, yet charming designs. Each doll is handcrafted, often featuring intricate hand-painted patterns and a lack of arms or legs, symbolizing simplicity and warmth. I love these more modern takes. At shrine sales, you often have to dig through boxes to find the perfect one. These dolls make for meaningful souvenirs, each one carrying a bit of history and craftsmanship that reflects Japan’s deep cultural heritage.
Ending the Day: Tokyo Somei Onsen Sakura
I like to end my Sugamo adventure at Tokyo Somei Onsen Sakura. This superpublic bathhouse, with a restaurant and a lovely collection of baths, is an amazing way to end any day of walking. If you visit in February, the plum blossoms in the nearby cemetery are stunning. The onsen has parking in a paid lot next door, validate at the onsen. You can rent towels, but I always bring my own. There is also a public pool here if it is hot and you need to take a dip!
Walk Back Through Love Hotel Alley
From the onsen, you can walk back to Sugamo Station, or if you’re feeling adventurous, take a stroll to Komagome Station. If you still have some time consider checking out Rikugien Garden, a traditional Japanese landscape garden that was created in the 18th Century.
Final Thoughts
Sugamo is one of my favorite places in Japan, and I hope this guide inspires you to visit! Whether you’re hunting for quirky souvenirs, seeking spiritual experiences, or just looking for a fun and unique Tokyo neighborhood, Sugamo has it all.
Don’t forget to wander, explore, and enjoy the wacky charm of Red Panty Street!
The best place to follow our adventures (and get lots of great travel finds like this) is on Instagram.
A huge thank you to the amazing group of friends who always say yes to venturing out with me and then answer the call for photos when I’ve forgotten to snap something.
