Elizabeth
Before the orangutans, the jungle hikes, and the rainstorms in the rainforest, we started our Malaysia adventure with a surprisingly relaxed and totally charming few days in Miri. If you’re planning a trip through Borneo with kids, I can’t recommend starting here enough. It’s calm, easy to navigate, and a great way to ease into what will likely be a very active trip.
Here’s what we did and how we made it work for our family.
This post contains affiliate links.
Saturday, April 26 – Travel Day: Tokyo to Miri
We had a very early start. We left Tokyo around 5 am to drive to Narita Airport. (We parked in the P-5 lot at Terminal 1, where you can make a reservation and ensure you get a spot.) Narita has a good Priority Pass Lounge where you can grab a drink and a small bite before your flight. Nothing at the airport opens early, including security, so we ended up with some time to kill.
We flew Scoot Airlines from Narita to Singapore on flight TR809. It’s a long haul—about 7 hours—and Scoot is a low-cost carrier, so heads up: no free food or drinks. There are also signs all over warning you not to bring your own food onboard. We packed snacks and extra water (critical), and had pre-booked three meals just to tide us over. No one said anything about the food we brought on board.
The Singapore Airport is a great place to spend some time. We ended up hanging in one of the priority pass lounges, but there is also plenty of entertainment at the airport itself. My favorite is riding the train between T2 and T3.
From Singapore, we caught our connecting flight: Scoot to Miri. Just over 2 hours. We landed around 7pm and headed straight to our hotel via a Grab.
We stayed at the Pullman Miri Waterfront, which was a great first stop. We had two rooms, breakfast was included, and the kids loved the pool. Check-in was smooth, and after all the travel, it was really nice to just flop down and rest.
Day 1 – Niah National Park Caves Day Tour
After breakfast at the hotel, we headed out around 8:30 am on a private day tour to Niah Caves, booked through Majestic Leisure.
The drive to Niah National Park takes about 90 minutes, and it’s worth it. We kept the kids busy in the car with Foldology (origami puzzles), origami, and their travel journals. We also swear by this color pencil roll.
Once you arrive at the park, there is some registration that is required. Taking a guide with you is also required; there are no guides for hire at the gate, so make sure you have pre-arranged your guide. Our driver was our guide, and he was able to handle the registration.
Your visit starts with a very short boat ride. It’s so short you wonder why they didn’t just build a bridge, but then again, the boat adds to the magic. It also helps employ the locals. You pay your boat driver when you return from the caves.
Just across the river is a small museum. You should start your visit here to get a lay of the land and understand the historical and cultural importance of the caves.
After the museum, you start the long walk to the caves. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the caves. The walk is mostly boardwalk.
Now and then you are passed on the path by men carrying out sacks of guano (bat poop) which is harvested from the cave and used as a fertilizer. It is one of the many ways that the cave is part of the local economy.
There are so many little things to look for on the walk. The kids enjoyed themselves.
The caves are massive and dramatic, with wooden plank walkways and real Indiana Jones vibes. There’s also some climbing, so wear proper shoes. We brought water, snacks, and bug spray—which I highly recommend.
Kids loved exploring the caves (with flashlights), and we had plenty of time to explore at our own pace. If you’re looking for a great nature-based outing from Miri, this is it.
Day 2 – Day Trip to Brunei
Brunei is a tiny, oil-rich nation tucked into the northern coast of Borneo. If you are already in Miri, it’s doable as a day trip. It’s not packed with tourists, which makes it feel even more special. We were curious, so we made the trip.
Again, we used Majestic Leisure and booked a private van for 9 hours. They clearly had a path they typically followed, but we were able to make some modifications to accommodate the kids.
There is some entry paperwork you need to do before you enter Brunei. Regardless of what it says online, it must be done for all the passengers, even children.
This day is A LOT of driving. We leaned heavily on the kindles to keep everyone entertained in the car. I stock them using our library’s Libby app and Kindle Unlimited.
Just after we crossed the border, we made a stop for an ATM and groceries. We plused up on snacks to get us through the day. Y’all know I love a great grocery store as part of our travel routine. Then we made a few short stops to see some of the city’s highlights.
- The One Billion Barrel Monument (a quick stop, but interesting)
- A walk around the Empire Hotel, built by the Sultan’s brother. It’s not terribly expensive, and the grounds are expansive. If I were replanning this trip, I would have put us here for one night.
- Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque – You can go in only during certain visiting times.
- Lunch at The Daun
- The Royal Regalia Museum (Entry not included in the tour; must remove shoes to enter). This museum was the most informative part of our visit. We learned so much about the Sultan.
- A boat ride through the water village, down the river, past the palace and on to see monkeys.
- A drive-by of the Istana Nurul Iman, the Sultan’s palace (which we were also able to view from the River.)
- A drive-by of the Omar Ali Suifuddien Mosque. We had the chance to get out here, but the kids were just too tired. So we peeked from the car and continued on.
It was a full day, but the pace was manageable. The border crossing was smooth on the way back home. We did use some very sketchy toilets at the border crossing. If you want to say you’ve been to Brunei—and “check off” a new country—it’s a fascinating little trip.
Tuesday, April 29 – Spa Morning & Flight to Kuching
We started the morning by heading to the Miri Handcraft Center. I had my eyes on these cute bags that are everywhere in Miri. The Handcraft Center had the best selection and prices. It is worth a visit if your looking to pick up a few souvenirs.
We booked morning spa appointments at Lemongrass Spa (which I loved so much I came back after Brunei the night before, while Jeff took the kids to the pool and dinner). It’s clean, calm, English-speaking, and takes credit cards. Massages all around, foot massages for the big kids and me, head/neck/shoulder for Jeff and our youngest.
Then we packed up and caught an AirAsia to Kuching. We’d pre-paid for our carry-ons and checked bags.
Easy flight, easy transfer. Onward to orangutans!
Need to Know:
- Book Niah and Brunei day tours through Majestic Leisure
- Lemongrass Spa is totally worth a visit
- Miri is an easy, gentle start to any Borneo trip with kids
- Consider staying one night in Brunei
Want more details on our time in Kuching and Kuala Lumpur? Stay tuned for the next post in this series! You can view an overview of the full itinerary here.
